Seville Oranges

These oranges are bitter and thick-skinned, often with a bumpy and irregular surface. They are not really meant for eating but make the most wonderful marmalades and can be used in cooking. Seville oranges have a very short season, being available only in January. Whilst they lend themselves very well to puddings (especially bittersweet dark chocolate puddings), they are also excellent in rich savoury sauces (eg duck in orange sauce). The following basic marmalade recipe can be augmented with a little fresh ginger or a drop of whisky for that little bit extra.

Seville Orange Marmalade (makes approximately 5lb)

750g ( 1lb 8oz) Seville oranges
1.75 litres (3 pints) water
Juice of 1 lemon
1.5Kg (3lb) granulated sugar
15g (1/2 oz) butter

Scrub the oranges well and put them whole into a large saucepan. Pour in the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, very gently for one and a half to two hours (until the skins are soft).

Lift the oranges out of the pan and let them cool enough to handle. Chop coarsely and tie the pips into a piece of muslin. Return the orange pieces and the bag of pips to the pan, along with the lemon juice and sugar. Heat slowly, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves.

Bring to the boil and boil steadily until setting point is reached*. Remove pan from heat and stir in the butter. Leave the marmalade in the pan until a skin forms on the surface. Stir gently and spoon into jars.

* To test for the setting point, drop a teaspoonful of the marmalade onto a cold saucer and leave for a minute. If the surface sets and crinkles when you prod it with a finger, then setting point has been reached. Alternatively, a sugar thermometer will show 105C\220F.